Monterosa 4000m peaks. 5 days

The Monterosa massif concentrates the largest number of peaks of more than 4000m in the Alps. The ease of access, the comfort and excellent food of the shelters and the spectacular environment make this place the ideal terrain for an alpine glacier route that will not leave you indifferent, and where we can reach 10 peaks of 4000m in 5 days.

Day 1: Quintino Sella 3585m

Meet at Staffal to review the material. We will take the ski lifts to Punta Betto, from where we will start walking along the ridge with spectacular views until we reach the Quintino Sella refuge, at the foot of the Felik glacier. The last section of the climb runs along a sharp ridge equipped with ropes.

Hours: 3 to 4 h

Elevation gain: + 900m

Day 2: Castor 4228m and Felikhorn 4174m

Climb the Felik Glacier to the Castor ridge, with some sections of 40º slope. From here we will follow the sharp and aesthetic snow ridge culminating our first 4000m peaks of the route, Felikhorn and Castor.
Descent to the Quintino Sella Refuge (3585 m), from Felikjoch by an easy glacier.
Magnificent high mountain route between Switzerland and Italy.
Hours: 4 to 5 h
Elevation gain: + 800 m / – 640 m

Day 3: Naso del Lyskamm 4272m Pyramid Vincent 4215m and Refugi Gnifetti 3600m
Climb up the Felik Glacier, following the southern slopes of the Lyskamm, before climbing to the top of the Nasso del Lyskamm.
Slope of 45 ° maximum, which can be complicated if there is ice. Descent along the Naso Pass and drop to the Lys Glacier, on a slope of 35/40 °.
After crossing the glacier, we will climb the pyramid Vincent (4215 m), with a beautiful view of the southern slope of Monte Rosa. Descent to the Gnifetti refuge (3600 m).
Hours: 6 to 8 h
Elevation: + 1080 m / – 1100 m

Day 4: Margheritta Refuge
One of the most beautiful days of this route.
We will go up to the Giordano Balmenhorn bivouac (4167 m) and we will continue linking 4000m peaks with the Corno Nero (4322 m), the Ludwigshöhe (4342 m) and the magnificent ridge of the Parrot point (4436 m).
Finally, we will climb to the top of Gnifetti Point (4554 m), where there is the highest refuge in Europe, the Margherita hut dating from 1893.
From the balcony of the shelter we have a spectacular view with an amazing sunset and sunrise!
Hours: 6 to 8 h
Elevation gain: + 1300 m / – 250 m

Day 5: Zumsteinspitze 4562m
Easy and fast climb to the top of the Zumsteinspitze by a snow ridge and a final section of climbing.
Magnificent view of the whole chain of the Alps, with Montblanc and Matterhorn among other peaks.

From here, we will go down the Lys glacier to the Gnifetti refuge and Punta Indren, where we will take the ski lift to go down to Staffal where the car is waiting for us and we will end this intense and spectacular route.

Hours: 4 to 6 h

Elevation gain: + 100m -1400m.

Experience in high mountains in PD/PD+ routes with guide.
Snow and ice slopes from 35 ° to 45 °. It is recommended to have done activities on snow or ice with similar slopes.
Easy climbing (III).

Elevation gain from 600 to 1300 m. Days from 6 to 10 am
Good physical condition is required, especially because this trek is at altitude.

The guide can modify the program at any time if one of the team members does not have the level, or if the conditions of the mountain are not good (weather, snow ...).

If the Nose of the Lyskamm presents ice, it is possible that we will have to go down to the bottom of the valley to reach the Gnifetti refuge. In this case, the cost of the ski lifts is not included in the program.
Possibility to reach a good collection of peaks of 4000m
Sleep in the highest refuge in Europe at 4500m
Excellent food and attention at the shelters
Spectacular environment with easy access
Our passionate and professional UIAGM guides

B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
Ice ax and crampons
Light harness, 1 HMS safety carabiner
Clothing following the system of the 3 layers:
Longjohn’s and synthetic t-shirt
Waterproof and breathable pants (gore-tex or similar)
Warm jacket (puffy or soft shell)
Waterproof, windproof and breathable jacket (gore-tex or similar)
Thin gloves and thick gloves
Cap and hat
Sunglasses and googles
Sun cream and lip protection
40l backpack
Headlamp and spare batteries
Cotton or silk bag for maximum comfort in shelters
Small toilettery

1. omplir el formulari següent:

2. Us enviarem el contracte amb les vostres dades i l'haurieu de frimar
3. Ingrés de Paga i Señal, 50% del total, al següent cc:
ES09 2100 2904 0002 0718 8253
Concepte: XXXXXX/Nom

    Monterosa 4000m peaks. 5 days

    • Dates: June to September
    • Time: 5 days
    • Price: 1 person 2700€pp
      2 person 1800€pp
      3 person 1450€pp
      4 person 1250€pp
    • Level: Moderate
    • Group: Max 4 per guide


    Program organization and reservations as described
    1 IFMGA guide for 4 people
    All cable car tickets as described in the program
    Half board accommodation at the Quintino Sella, Gnifetti and Margherita refuges.
    Collective safety equipment (ropes, ice screws, glacier kit ...)

    Not Included

    Personal equipment (see rental options)
    Accommodation in the valley (before and after the program)
    Meals other than half board in the shelters
    Personal expenses such as water or extra meals at the shelters.
    Unexpected changes to the program